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The Taste for Beef in the USA:
letter from America
Robert Groom
Expatriate Scot, AA breeder in New York State
Tullyfergus Herd
Filed 26 Jan 04
www.land-care.org.uk
Hi James,
I have just been reading your article on Atkins
(1) and thought I'd throw in my two-cents (I work in US currency
now!).
It is ironic that the rise in obesity coincided
directly with falling beef consumption other than that derived from
'fast' food outlets such as McDonalds and Burger King. Animal rights
advocates continue to point the finger at animal agriculture as
the root of obesity and yet it appears that poor old Dr. Atkins
was right all along. It is carbohydrates that build fat, not protein
rich diets. Of course the tragedy is that Dr. Atkins did not live
long enough to see the broad and expanding acceptance of his theory.
Much is being made of the childhood obesity plague
in the USA. Yet again it has coincided directly with the increase
in carbohydrate and saturated fat intake that our increasingly culinary
incompetent society has created. Despite the BSE 'scare' consumer
confidence here remains strong in beef. In fact stronger even than
in September of '03 according to the latest survey.
The likelihood seems to be that the EU will not
change their grading system to reflect marbling or Intra muscular
fat (IMF) and the UK in all probability will not 'go it alone' on
this issue. So the best way forward would be to get the consumer
to buy the brand rather than the product. The Certified Angus Beef
(CAB) program in the USA has reached the point where - when a consumer
goes to a store to buy beef - instead of trying to deduce from the
appearance of the beef whether it will be a good eating experience
or not, they look and buy 'the brand' CAB. This is because the brand
is known for its quality, consistency and flavour. The A-A Cattle
Society in the UK appear to be striving for the same thing with
the Aberdeen Angus Beef Club.
The challenge for UK Angus producers is to maintain
the quality of the brand without the benefit of a marbling or IMF
grade to cut those carcases out that do not meet the necessary standard.
In the US, beef that grades "USDA Select' has only traces of
marbling. In the lean Select grade beef served to consumers in restaurants
has a 1 in 4 dissatisfaction rate, and beef that grades low Choice
displaying slight amounts of marbling has a 1 in 10 dissatisfaction
rate. Beef that meets the standards for CAB by achieving mid-Choice
or higher (moderate to abundant marbling) has a dissatisfaction
rate of less than 2 out of 100!
I noted last year that one UK supermarket had
reduced consumer complaints about their beef by over 60% when they
started selling Aberdeen Angus beef (and not their entire range
of beef either) so the inherent quality of Angus beef remains despite
some of our efforts! The question is whether it is wise to continue
the drive for more and more muscle without addressing the impact
on eating quality.
One step I would recommend is that the ultrasound
measurement of Angus cattle be switched from muscle depth and backfat
depth to rib-eye area, %IMF and backfat. There is ample evidence
that IMF can be selected for without increasing backfat, so quality
can be improved without going into fat class 5.
There remains an antagonism between muscle and
IMF which has to be addressed, particularly because of the penalties
that go with failure to achieve R conformation grade.
A switch to the American system of measuring and
processing ultrasound data would also give UK Angus producers a
real link to American genetics, perhaps aiding selection of future
herd sires or even opening the market in the US to UK breeders with
outcross and beneficial carcase genetics.
All the best for 2004
Robert B. Groom
Email: rnlgroom@redsuspenders.com
References
1. Irvine, James (2004). At last farmers
should be able to breed cattle for tasty beef again.
See FOOD Homepage. filed 25 Jan 04, www.land-care.org.uk
Click
Here to View
Further Reading Recommended by Land-Care
 Groom,
Robert (2003). Letter from America by expatriate Scott AA breeder
See
Science Homepage, filed 5 May 03, www.land-care.org.uk Click
Here to View
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