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Scottish Highland HospitalityEdited by Claire MacDonald Pages: 240 This book is based around 20 eating establishments in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland that have been chosen by Claire Macdonald following personal visits and on the basis of preferring owner-occupier places. She excluded any establishment that had had a change in chef within a year. The establishments were chosen on the basis of the warmness of the welcome, the ambience and the quality of the food. It is clear from the introduction that the editor, who is well-known for the quality of Kinloch Hotel on the Isle of Skye, is an enthusiast for the excellence of the food that can be got in the Highlands. She has set about her task with much diligence and enjoyment. Indeed, it would be very tempting to plan a gastronomic itinerary to include as many of the establishments as possible. This idea is made all the more compelling by the delightful and plentiful landscape photography of Stephen Kearney. Also attractive about this book are the photographs of the proprietors, cooks or chefs for each establishment - making it all so much more personal. Much of the enjoyment of eating is in the imagery of the place, pleasant associations with it and the hospitality of the hosts, as well as in the taste buds. Certainly this book whets the appetite. If critics are supposed to make a criticism, than perhaps the photography of the fare on offer might have come up to the standard of that of the landscapes. Perhaps Mr Kearney had enjoyed the hospitality just a little too much to keep enough of the fare in focus. Otherwise the quality of the book production was first class. Yet it is a pity that this eminently Scottish book was printed and bound in Spain. Edinburgh used to have such an excellent reputation for printing and binding, until the printing unions destroyed it all years ago when they fought so fiercely against the introduction of computer technology. I am not going to reveal where these 20 establishments are - the reader should buy the book to find out, and to read the recipes typical of each. Included in the 20 is the last to be mentioned, which is one of my favourites (when I can afford it). Dr James Irvine |